Fancy a gorgeous hair color this season? Hair coloring is a popular technique that alters the natural shade of the hair, but it cannot unwrap the magic alone. For the color to penetrate the strands deeply and stay put, coloring crème needs its partner hair developers. The art and science of changing the natural hair color is a combined effort of hair coloring crème with developers.
So, why is hair color developer so important? What is the science behind it? How do you choose the right developer formula as per your coloring requirement? Here’s decoding everything you need to know about developers:
Hair color developers for optimal color penetration
Mixing the hair developers with the permanent coloring crème activates the color. The developer contains hydrogen peroxide that lifts or opens up the hair cuticles and ensures optimal pigment absorption through the cuticle layer. As a result, it locks the color, making it fade-proof and long-lasting. Here’s what developers do:
- Color activation: Mixing the developer with the hair coloring cream activates the color pigments and improves efficiency.
- Open cuticles: The hydrogen peroxide content in the developers opens the cuticles necessary for fade-proof coloring.
- Color absorption: With open or lifted cuticles, it helps with efficient color penetration and adequate pigment deposit.
- Good consistency: The developer and crème color mix forms a uniform and thick paste, making application easy and non-drippy.
Different developers – Choosing the right formula
Armed with the basic science behind developers, the next step is to differentiate between different formulations and choose the right one. The developers vary in the percentage of hydrogen peroxide, and each has a distinct purpose. Here are the different types of developers:
5 Volume Developer
It is one of the lesser used and mildest hair developers with 1.5% hydrogen peroxide, often used as a deposit-only formula with semi and demi-permanent colors. The developer does not offer gray coverage. With its ability to deposit color and add shine, it is frequently used with toners and glazers.
10 Volume Developer
The 10-volume developer consists of 3% hydrogen peroxide, also known as no lift developers, as it provides no to very slight lift. While these are used with permanent hair colors for gentle color shifts, it does not offer gray coverage. Used as a default developer with toners and glazers, it helps in darkening hair by 1 level.
20 Volume Developer
It is one of the most commonly used hair developers with 6% hydrogen peroxide, giving 1- 2 levels of lift when used with permanent colors. Also, it helps with 100% gray coverage. The 20-volume developer helps in shifting from lighter to deeper or darker shade. Hence, if you have light colored hair, the developer helps darken it.
30 Volume Developer
With 9% hydrogen peroxide, it gives a lift of 3 – 4 levels and helps lighten hair. It is majorly used professionally at salons and is a strong developer that helps lighten darker hair. Also, it is commonly used for lighter highlights. The developer is often used with various permanent hair colors or lightening creams.
40 Volume Developer
One of the strongest developers with 12% hydrogen peroxide, it gives up to 8 levels of lift. The developer is only used for lightening hair and is recommended for professional use only. If you have dark natural hair or a darker shade and want to opt for a very light color, the developer helps in achieving the desired result. The developer can be used with permanent colors as well as lightening cream.
Here are a few things to consider before opting for a developer:
Color Type – The developer’s strength or volume depends on the type of hair color you choose. Choose a mild developer for temporary colors (semi or demi), toners, and glazers (5 – 10 volume developer). You can use semi-permanent colors even without developers. Opt for a moderate developer (20 volume developer) for darkening hair from existing lighter hair shades. Opt for a strong developer (30 – 40 volume developer) for lightening hair from existing darker shades.
Hair Type – Depending on your hair type and texture, the developer’s efficiency also varies. For thin hair, it is recommended to use a low-volume developer as color penetrates faster. Moderate volume developer is recommended for normal hair. However, high volume is advised for thick and coarse hair, as color penetration might take time.
Mixing Ratio – The ratio might differ depending on numerous factors like formulation, hair type, and color you wish to achieve. It is advised to follow the package instructions for the ratio.
Hair color developers, with their ability to activate the color and open the cuticles, are an important part of the hair coloring process. This makes it crucial to mix the developer with the permanent color of choice for maximum absorption of pigments and to give a fade-proof lasting result.
